We left Portomarin early, along with a constant stream of pilgrims. So many more on the road from Sarria. Not sure if it is, as we have read, Spanish pilgrims doing the Sarria to Santiago stretch, or if it is other walkers, like us, making a dash to get away from Sarria before the weekend rush of Spanish pilgrims begins. Either way, there were a lot on the road, and even more surprising was the fact that we often found ourselves alone on a stretch of path. I guess we all find our own rhythm and pace.
Today was a walk through forest woodlands, farmlands, and of course across hills! The morning was oh so cold! Packed my beanie away last night, but had to dig it out again. The sun was warm-ish, but the shade was cool and the wind was freezing.
But arriving in Palas de Rei this afternoon about 2.30-3.00, the wind had dropped and pilgrims who had already arrived had taken up places in the sun outside the nearest bar, and proceeded to welcome everyone who walked down the street. Such a friendly mob. And always good to catch up with so many people we have met along the way. Not far to go now, and it's starting to feel even more like a celebration.
Highlight of the day today was seeing a group of pilgrims help a local woman herd a bull into a paddock. Such a sight, and sound... non-stop Spanish chatter. I am no closer to being able to understand it either. A small group of us got the message that she wanted us to wait so that she could get the animal into the paddock. The gate was shut, and by the time she opened the gate, and kept the other animals away, the bull took off to the paddock across the road.
A large group of pilgrims arrived, several Spanish speakers amongst them. So funny when several get together, they all talk at once, and you have to wonder who if anyone is doing the listening. Anyway, a couple of pilgrims took off into the paddock and rounded up the bull, quite ruffled by this stage, herded him up onto the road, where others were barricading the road with walking poles. Such a cheer went up when he finally made it into the right paddock, and we could all continue on our way.
There are lots of ways to travel the camino, and bike is quite common. Today and yesterday we saw a very unique way. Not sure how they manage the hills!
Yesterday, Lex was almost wiped out by a cyclist. Most of them give no indication of their approach. Sadly. As a bike rushed past me, I called out 'bike', and Lex quickly exited to the nearest side of the road... the right hand side. Exactly the path the cyclist was taking, apparently. The cyclist screamed, adjusted his line and only just missed Lex. So close.
Notes to self
- 25kms
- Municipal Albergue in Palas de Rei 6€ each. No curtains on the showers! Mixed showers. Had the room to myself at the time, so I count myself lucky!
- If not staying overnight in Portomarin, don't go up the stairs.
- Could be noisy here tonight. Seems to be a check-in point for a car rally just across the road from our Albergue. Mmm,
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