Day 25 walking COLD is a great motivator 16 May

Beautiful morning as we left Astorga. Early morning sun highlighted snow on distant mountains. It was stunning, but clouds quickly moved in, changing the day to cold and blustery. Not the best conditions, and coupled with a long string of pilgrims leaving Astorga, the pressure was on for beds further along the line. Shouldn't have worried, seems to be plenty of facilities in Rabanal.

Wildflowers are out everywhere, different from the varieties we have seen previously. Lots of wild lavendar. Beautiful

Arrived in Rabanal around mid-day after a speedy walk. Really warm welcome at this Albergue - heater was on in reception, log fire in the common room, and another heater in the kitchen. Very cozy. But apparently it snowed here last night. And similar weather is expected for tomorrow, with rain. Should make for an interesting day up to Cruz de Ferro.

Last night in the hostel in Astorga, we saw many walking wounded. Heard tales of people with totally blistered feet, swollen legs and knees, visiting doctors all along the way and taking buses. So far we are doing ok. I have one more small blister today, and have had it dressed by one of the volunteer hospitaleros here. Amazing people. They do two week volunteer stints. He also offered to massage my feet for me. Argh. I don't think so, sore as they are. That would be like torture to me. Did well letting him touch the toes.

Went to church for evening vespers. Wouldn't be awake for 9.30pm mass. It was very special. The whole thing was sung in chants, possibly in Latin. Who knows. And a reading was done by some of the pilgrims, in English, German, French, and Spanish.

Notes to self

• 20km  Astorga to Rabanal del Camino
• Albergue Gaucelmo - Donnativo
• great atmosphere - warm log fire and comfortable common areas.
• 2 rooms - other room is in a separate building, and possibly not as warm and cosy.

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