Thursday, May 23, 2013

Day 32 walking. Not fit, just bloody stubborn. 23 May

Portomarin

This morning we started from Sarria, about 113km from Santiago. It feels so close, like it's just over the hills. Yes there are still hills and mountains. Then I realise that the distance is about the same as Clermont to Emerald, and it brings me back to reality. Strange, I couldn't imagine walking from Clermont to Emerald, but this doesn't seem impossible.

Leaving Sarria
Today the walk was beautiful, once again. The landscape and environment has certainly changed in the last few days. A lot more people seem to have joined in, and we left Sarria with quite a crowd, including some of our camino family that we haven't seen for days.


And for the first time I thought it was time to wear the gear we anticipated wearing. But it only feels like summer whilst in the sun. As soon as you pass through shade, you feel cold.

What a magnificent tree embedded in this stone fence. Years old!
Even had to share our path with a small herd of cattle.
Similar to yesterday, the path wandered along country roads and lanes, between farms and through farming villages. However unlike yesterday there were more places to stop including one amazing place in the middle of nowhere. In fact when we stopped for lunch we were much further ahead than I had thought we were. That's a good sign.
Refuelling for the next alto!
Lunch spot. Nice.

Not sure what these constructions are. But we saw several today.  Postscript.  They are for drying and storing corn.

Vertical gardens


Are we fit yet? Absolutely NOT!

'Bloody pig-headed!' would be a better description. We plod and puff our way up all the slopes, STILL, while fitter people stride easily past us.

 Today, whilst going up a rise, slowly, I heard the rapid 'clack, clack' of walking poles fast approaching, and going right past me. 'Show off' I thought as I kept my head down plodding on uphill. When another similar 'clack clack' approached and passed, I looked up and noticed that neither fast walker was wearing a backpack! 'Hatred' is a very strong word, and not one I like to use, but my feelings at that moment were approaching that level. Not very virtuous of me I'm sad to say. Feeling didn't last long as I reminded myself that we all walk our own camino.


This afternoon, as we checked in to an Albergue, I must have looked pretty exhausted. Guess I did. Approach to this town is down a long steep gravel slope across a long bridge with a cross wind and finally up a long, very steep staircase.


The Albergue was full, but the operator phoned another one for us, found us beds, and then had her mother walk us to the next place so we didn't get lost, saying 'cansada' (tired) and patting me on the arm. Not the first time someone has taken pity on me at the end of a day either. One time we were given beds on the same floor as the women's bathrooms, so I wouldn't have to go up and down. Another time I was given a lower bunk. Nice.

Notes to self.
  • 22.5km Sarria to Portomarin
  • Albergue Manuel 10€ each
  • Mercadoiro has a fantastic bar, restaurant. Albergue looks good too. Would be a good stop.  Next time

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