Relaxing in Sofia

Hard to believe it's really only 2 weeks today since our return to Santiago, completing our camino across Spain, 900km. During those 6 weeks, it was routine to get up before daylight, repack backpacks, and start walking, usually before 7.30am. In just 2 weeks, that has become a distant memory, and we have become lazy,especially here in our comfy loft apartment in Sofia, rarely getting going before 11.30am. Things will change next week, when we begin a Balkans Tour with Tucan. So we are making the most of it.

First day here we did a Free Sofia Tour- an excellent introduction to this city and its fascinating history. Deni, our guide has a passion for history, and it shows. Best tour ever!

 

Since that tour, we have revisited several of the sites we were introduced to. Today we went to the Archaeological Museum. So many relics found in this city, and across Bulgaria, dating back more than 1600 years BC. Incredible.

So many different churches here in Sofia, and some dating back to 4 century BC.

And went back to see the changing of the guard...

 

But we do have a language problem! Even the alphabet is different, so we have no idea how to pronounce anything. Absolutely NOTHING is familiar. Though we might take an easy option day 1 for breakfast, and go to Maccas. None of the usual Maccas breakfast items, and all we could do was point to a picture on the wall. Soooo uncool.

Some of the menus since then, have had English translations as well. You realise how important the visual clues are. Looking at shop signs is absolutely no help at all. All good experience.

On our second night here, we planned to go on a Pub Crawl. Found our way to the meeting point, and had noticed streets full of people. Found out it was a political protest, about the appointment earlier that day, of a particular MP as head of security. Ten thousand people were out in the streets, marching, chanting outside government buildings. Mmmmmmm. Tricky. Lex and I opted to keep away from that scene, and decided to make it another night.

New Sofia Pub Crawl, Take 2. Next night. Same place, same time, and same scenario. Protests again. This time we all agreed to continue with the pub crawl. Interestingly, protests here have been quite large, very noisy, but also very peaceful. Amazing night! We discovered places only a local would know about. Unique places. We made our way home around 2.30am- latest we've been out for ages! But, description of this event will have to wait until later, because family and friends will be joining us here later this week, and we'll do it all again. Don't want to spoil the surprise for them

Tonight we had dinner at an Italian restaurant across the road, but before going out we could hear sounds of the protest starting up again. Streets were full of people - families with small children, all ages, just walking down the street towards government buildings. Police were about, but only on the sidelines. Later this evening we could hear protest chants getting closer. The march had continued, and grown for several hours, and was coming down a nearby street. They were noisy, whistles, drums, chanting, but peaceful. Police were out in force around a particular building, but as soon as the crowd passed, they followed them down the street to their bus and left. All so peaceful. Amazing when you realise that drinking in public places is accepted here, and many protestors had beer in their hands. Apparently protestors return to the streets to clean up the next morning, according to web reports.

 

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Last days in Madrid.

Last is first, cos that's what I remember. Today was a relaxing day, and hoping for an early night. Off to the airport early tomorrow, as we have not been able to do online checkin and print tickets. Fingers crossed. Wandered the shops around here today, lots of beautiful clothes, but still needing to carry everything in a backpack, not much need for them or room for them.

Had to try El Tigre Tapas Bar tonight, and just as reviews stated, the place packs out because they give away plates of food with all drinks orders. Huge plates of food. Not the delicate tapas we have seen elsewhere, but plenty of it. Could only have 2 drinks, cos we couldn't manage another plate of food. Hahah

Wonderful sight as we sat in this bar. An elderly couple came in. Well that's really an overstatement. Didn't notice them until I saw one of the bar tenders at the door, not only holding it open for them, but actually assisting them to negotiate the small step up into the bar. He was sooo patient with them. They, ever so slowly made their way to the back area, and I noticed 2 cups of coffee, and a large plate of tapas being delivered to them. Looked like it was a regular event. When they left, the same process took place, and I watched as they slowly shuffled across the narrow street, while traffic respectfully gave them plenty of space and time. They shuffled to the store entrance, unable it seemed to negotiate the small step, and waited there until the attendant came to the doorway, found out what they wanted, returned with items..... Etc. once again they shuffled slowly across the street, and 10m up the street to their doorway. A door to be unlocked and opened, another small step, and their afternoon outing was complete. Well at least as far as my prying eyes were concerned. I hoped they had a lift in their building. They had to be in their late 80s or 90s, both very well dressed for the outing, the man in a suit. He carried a walking stick, and she took his arm for her support. Beautiful.

Previous days, we continued our Madrid sight seeing, this time by seeking out some geocaches. Nice to see the ipad is up to the task, and having a Spanish data sim meant we could be online for it. The best part about geocaching is that is leads you to places you might not otherwise find.

One day we came across this amazing playground.... for BIG kids. The sign actually said 6+ years, but it reminded us of ropes courses at Camp Fairbairn. Big difference was use of these is not restricted or controlled.

Yep. Looks like I was stuck, and I was!

Found the river, a bridge, a lake, and the very upmarket area of Salamanaca.

So many huge amazing buildings here, just keep snapping. Took another snap of this building because it was a bright sunny day. Previous time was cloudy. Looking at both, I know which one i prefer.

And this car.... Even makes a Smart Car look big. Two seats, one behind the other.

As we prepare to leave Spain, I've been thinking back on our time here. Have heard that Spanish economy is not good, and we have certainly seen lots of people of all ages begging here in Madrid. But there are soooo many bars, cafes and restaurants, and they are all well patronised. I realise the parts of the city we have wandered are full of tourists, but there are also hoards of locals out and about.... At all times of the day and night. Interesting.

Also a confession. We did spend quite a bit of time learning Spanish since we decided to take this trip. For the most part, the camino weeks of our trip really didn't require a lot of Spanish, English being the common language on the camino. Here in Madrid, you can do most things without much Spanish. As we sat in a cafeteria at breakfast this morning, a group of local men were engaged in an animated discussion over their coffee. And when they stopped to draw breath, Lex and I had exactly the same thought... The only word we could recognise in all that dialogue was 'mucho'. I think I know a lot more words, but when it comes to understanding spoken Spanish, I fail miserably. Sorry Milka and Zac. I will have to keep trying, be patient with me.

 

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Weekend in Madrid

There's always things happening here, and the weekend was full of surprises. Saturday started off with a couple of museums, including the Naval Museum. So many boat pictures, as you can imagine. Lex reminded me that he has talked about making model boats in the future instead of full size ones like the 4 canoes that we now store. Good idea.

But I hope they don't turn out to be as BIG as these 'models'.

As we walked around various parts of the city, people were out and about enjoying the outdoor eateries and bars, and sometimes listening to music, like the one in this small plaza. We joined them for a while - great way to pass Saturday afternoon.

Finished the evening off in another unique bar. So much history in this place.

Sunday - day for markets, so we set off to find the Rastro Markets. On our way through Plaza Mayor, cyclists were gathering for a 'Tweed Ride'.

Rastro Markets fill streets of the old city area, literally. Sooooo much. Bigger than BA markets, with over 3500 stalls. Still no need to carry more in our backpacks we weren't looking to buy, just looking for the experience, and maybe some street performers.

Found this bottle washer for you Lac and Zac. Doesn't fit in the backpack, sorry.

 

Huge crowds soon had us heading for calmer areas.

Came across a wedding - such elaborate gowns on all the women.

Walked into another huge crowd listening to an orchestra and choir outside the Palace.

And a group who looked like they might have been performing some sort of ceremony or ritual. Reminded us of the cleansing/smoking ceremony were saw in Cusco.

Onto the Templo de Debod- yep, an Egyptian temple in a middle of Madrid. A gift apparently.

Enjoyed afternoon drinks and tapas at a bar which offers 1€ Domingo. Pints of beer and 'tinto verano' (bit like Sangria) and 100 different tapas ... All for 1€ each. Salads are a little more extravagant at 2€.

Sunday, like Saturday saw huge crowds in all the city streets. Shops were open, and people were out shopping, eating etc. On our way back home we saw one of the best street performers we've seen. Mime is very clever, and no language barrier.

Mmm - what shall we do tomorrow?

 

 

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