Day 9 walking. A day of learning to appreciate what we have 30 April

Logroño 30 April

The camino teaches many lessons if you are open to learning them. Today was the day for learning to appreciate what we have.

After a cold, wet evening the night before, we awoke early to more rain. Had planned to make an early start with Pierre, but there was no point in heading out early. If you must walk in rain, then at least leave it until daylight. So we went back to the warmth of sleeping bags for a while.

We shared breakfast of bananas, cake and chocolate (Milka chocolate), donned wet weather gear and followed others out into the rain. There was much rustling of plastic that morning as everyone it seemed, donned wet weather pants, jackets, pack covers and ponchos. Lex had discarded his torn 'el cheapo' poncho days earlier. I was really wishing we had bought some of those light weight weather proof trousers we had seen in Melbourne. On a previous day Lex had worn shorts as his wet weather gear - like others, thinking that skin dries faster than fabric.

But this morning was bitterly cold. Merino base layers were worn under trousers, and Lex wore Aussie style sock protectors, to keep water from flowing down into his socks. Worked really well

So today I have much to be thankful for......

• Dry feet - we have walked in mud and rain, this morning, quite heavy rain, but my socks, and therefore my feet remain largely dry. Just a little damp from perspiration.
• Merino base layer leggings are warm even when wet. And they were drenched.
• Quick dry travel clothes really do dry quickly. Heaviest rain stopped after 2 or 3 hours, and our clothes dried out completely.
• Wearing 6 layers means I am warm, but I am also carrying less in my pack. 6 - tshirt, smart wool base layer, warm jacket, light wind-proof jacket, water proof jacket, and poncho over myself and the pack. Upper body felt snug and dry. Until the poncho ripped, and the tear just kept going.
• Hot chocolate warms the hands and the insides. Stopped for hot chocolate after walking in rain for a couple of hours.
• There are shops in the bigger cities. Most of the villages/towns we pass through seem very quiet, almost deserted. Logroño is a bustling place, at least after the siesta time. I only brought one pair of long pants with me, opting for shorter gym style pants for warmer weather, which hasn't eventuated. Just had to have a second pair.
• Walking in the rain was cooler- didn't sweat so much, or need to drink too much water.

Other lessons I learned today.

• On cold days, walking poles are ICY- even carbon fibre ones. So cold I couldn't bear to put my hands outside sleeves of my jacket to hold poles for walking, so I carried them, but they were ICY.
• Ibuprofen helps numb the pain in sore legs..... Or maybe it was the vino tinto we had for our picnic lunch. No glasses, but we shared it around anyway.
• There's always another 'f#%**%ing hill'. Lex's words...

Not sure whether it was because of the rain and cold weather pushing us on, or the Ibuprofen and vino tinto, but we made good time, and were feeling ok at Viana, the 20km mark, so we kept going. An ideal day to do this really, as we were heading towards a larger city where there would be ample accommodation.

Visited 2 magnificent churches today, one in Viana, and and even bigger, more impressive one here in Logroño. An amazing find in this church was a painting of the crucifixion by Michelangelo. It was locked in a vault behind glass, and could be illuminated by placing 50c coin in a slot, enabling photos without flash. Fascinating.

Treated ourselves to a bit of luxury tonight. Not staying in a Municipal Albergue, but a private one, in a matrimonio room, with private bathroom, sheets on the bed, and large soft towels. Luxury.

Notes to self.

• 29km.  Los Arcos to Logroño
• Albergue Logroño is sooooo comfortable. Heated room, and towel rack. TV, sheets, towels, shampoo etc. 30€ for matrimonio room. Money well spent.
• Tapas and pinchos served in bars.
• Vino tinto has a warming effect, even on the coldest days.  

Posted with Blogsy

Day 8 walking Estella to Los Arcos April 29

We were expecting the worst as we set out from Estella this morning. Previous night was so cold, weather reports stating it was coldest day on record for this time of year. Predictions were for rain, cold weather for the next 3 days. Also heard that the pass over the mountain which we crossed on our second day was once again closed due to blizzards. News reports featured snow in Madrid. So we were expecting cold, and dressed accordingly.

But within 500m walking we were making the first wardrobe adjustment for the day. Change out of warm jackets into light ones. The day turned out to be quite good. We took the lower, slightly longer path which still held beautiful views of far off cliffs and snow capped mountains. We were so lucky.

Set off slightly later than usual, because our first point of interest was to the the Wine Fountain at Irache, and we'd read that it didn't open until 8am. We arrived there around 8.40am, and the wine was only a trickle. Maybe others had drained it before us. But, hey, it's free so what do you expect. We did the noble thing, and emptied one of our bottles of water, and collected about half a cup of Irache wine. Guessing it was the same wine we bought for 1.90€ from a store tonight. Gotta love it.

Today we met up with friends we had met up on the first days. It's like meeting long lost friends. Such a good feeling. Two Swedish ladies who had spent the previous night in a four star hotel in Estella and Pierre, Canadian friend.

Following the yellow arrows and camino signs is a bit like going on a treasure hunt. Pierre introduced us to his Australian friend David, an 81 yr old, who walked 250kms on one of the other camino routes before joining this one. This is his third camino. Amazing people. Scenery is spectacular, but the people you meet make the most significant memories.

During the day, the sky grew greyer, and just as we reached Los Arcos, rain started to fall. Great timing. About 3pm. Looked for a bed for the night. My greatest fear is that there will be no room at the inn. Close call today I think. We are in the Municipal Albergue. 34 beds closely packed into one room. Interesting.

Found an interesting bar, and headed out to taste some local culinary delights. Vino tinto - 3.50€ for 3 glasses. We ordered a pizza, and a paella - together costing less than 10€. Delicious.

But toooo cold so we are back in the Albergue.... In bed

BTW, it is 7.30pm as I write this, cold and wet so I'm in my sleeping bag on my bunk, with church bells continuing to ring out, and sounds of snoring very close. No it is not Lex.

Notes to self

• 21km Estella to Los Arcos
• Municipal Albergue - 6€ each for a bed. Given disposable sheet and pillowcase for the bed. Really close sleeping arrangements!!!!
• Enjoyed a few vino tintos and some food in local bar. Very friendly staff.
• My blister fared ok today, but doesn't feel too good now. So hoping for improvement tomorrow.
• David's tip for teaching/training yourself NOT to snore. He apparently bought a very thick Lonely Planet guide book. Put it in the middle of his bed- stopped him from ever sleeping on his back and consequently snoring. He thinks it is something that can be controlled and apparently told a bloke off the night before for keeping him awake.
• No recharge on ipad tonight as only power outlet is in the communal area. Not prepared to stand there or leave it unattended. Many do.

Nothing left of the Pizza and paella. Yummy

Posted with Blogsy

Day 7 walking. Every day has ups and downs April 28

Day 7 walking, Puerte La Reina to Estrella 22.4km

And the path certainly had its fair share up ups and downs. The first climb of the day seemed to go on forever.... And we were battered by icy winds. Hard to imagine you can be so cold in sunshine. Started out dressed for cold, well I did, merino leggings, trousers, etc. Worked up a sweat going up the first climb, so removed the jacket layer near the top, only to add a lighter jacket layer a little later.

The time we get going in the morning is very much determined by the group in the room where we are sleeping. No-one stirred particularly early this morning, so we didn't get up until around 6.30am, and out walking by around 7.15am. Other rooms were already cleared by the time we got up. But the previous morning, our room seemed to be the early starters, and we were out on the road by 6.30, walking in the dark. There seemed to be a lot more people on the path today, not sure why, but most were in a definite hurry, and we were frequently passed.

We always say that we are walking our own camino, and don't want to get pressured into walking the pace or distances set by others, but there's just a smidgen of pressure when people keep passing you, especially older pilgrims. Don't fear, I've been able to resist so far, so should be ok. There are some amazingly fit people walking the camino. Haven't seen 81 yr old friend for days. Good on him.

We passed through some amazing villages today.... Usually at the top of a long climb.

Today had been such a hard slog. Legs ache, feet tired, blister still sore, shivering cold, and blustery wind.

In Estella, we have checked in to a hostel, also at the top of a long hill, but a little out of town, so we won't be going anywhere for dinner. Think I might curl up in my sleeping bag for a while.

We have walked 114km, plus several kms sight seeing around towns.

Notes to self

• 22.4km Puenta la Reina to Estella
• Albergue Juvenil Oncineda.  Bed 9.90€. Meal 9.80€. Breakfast...not sure of price. Too exhausted and cold to go out.
• Carry toilet paper with you.
• Hot chocolate is delicious on cold days. So is warm crusty fresh baguette
• Walking poles are not necessary when walking on bitumen through towns, especially early in the morning. More pilgrims should be considerate about this. Clack clack clack clack.

hot chocolate... more like Quick, but so warm and delicious!

Posted with Blogsy

Living like a turtle for a week...

We've been living out of a back pack for a week now, so how is it going?

So cold he wore socks on his hands

Lex is still confused. Doesn't know where anything is. Has this new pack, a NZ design which has 2 waterproof front packs, which aim to distribute the weight between front and back, and in reality should give ample spaces for those things you need to get to as you walk. Reality is quite different in this case. He has great difficulty finding anything.

We were on our way out of Pamplona ( ie through the Pyrenees, and what we thought might be the coldest areas) before he found his buff (neck scarf). Really needed it today too - sooo cold. Lucky we found it yesterday. Good thing is, it hasn't worn out, and is still clean!

The main part of his pack only has one compartment, but he has various packing cells, and we also have a bag for using to take items to the shower. But it has all sorts of things in it... Things that otherwise don't have a home. So you can see - he obviously has too much stuff, and is totally confused. He'll get there before the end.... I hope.

I have less options for storing my stuff, so less is more.

When we arrive at an Albergue, we unpack sleeping bag and liner first .... claims the bed. Most places so far have a sheet and pillow, in clean pillow case. Sometimes it is disposable sheets, most times cotton, but pillow cases are very interesting. Pillow slips is a better term as they have no seam on either end, so when you put the pillow in and shake it down, it slips right through. Happened in Pamplona, where we were given a sheet and pillow slip when we registered. Laughed to myself when it happened to me, but couldn't resist watching it happen to Lex later.

Then we usually head for a shower - always a different experience, and just when you think you have it sorted out, I find something else which is even more difficult than getting everything wet - shared shower spaces, or just a trickle of water.

Most frustrating thing is small travel towels... Just so small, and get saturated so quickly. In warm weather back home it really wasn't an issue. Could have even used a face washer size towel. But here, where it is cold, a regular size, dry (even better .... warm) towel would feel like a luxury.

Keeping all your stuff together is a challenge too. Can't spread out, there are many people in a room. Good thing is, with 2 of us, one person can watch the valuables (documentos, ipad, money). Most places have seemed really good, but always need to be careful.

Washing needs to be done frequently - even better to do it each day. Routine. Haven't mastered that yet. Even worse when things don't dry overnight and we need to pin them to the outside of the pack to dry in the sun as you walk. Well that's the theory, but in the rain, that's a bit more difficult. Although today, it worked for Lex. His fingers were sooooooo cold today, as we came over Alto de Peredon,it was unbearable. He couldn't work the camera, couldn't do anything. Couldn't even get them into his pockets, cos the pack strap goes across the opening to pockets. So, we got his 'not yet dry' socks from the back of the pack, and put them on his hands. Improved gradually... Gloves might be worthwhile next time.

Packing cells seem to work quite well - keep clothes together. Soap in a small fabric bag, also works really well. Has a drawstring so you can hang it on the tap, which is so good as there is rarely anywhere to put things in the showers.

So all in all, we haven't got this back packing caper sorted yet. Living with less is one of the challenges we talked about in doing this camino, and we certainly have a lot less than we normally travel with. But today I struggled with the weight of my pack. In some places, there are donation boxes, where walkers shed some of their unwanted items, or pick up desired items. Haven't done either yet. Will be so much easier when the weather gets warmer. What can I send home.... Was considering this question the afternoon we walked into Pamplona in the sun (in t-shirts ). But we left Pamplona in the rain next day, and it just got colder. Looking at news on the tv in this bar, and it's showing snow somewhere in Spain. So not yet.

We are getting there....

Note, Lex's socks on the back of his pack, drying. Third day, more sun today, so maybe ok.

Posted with Blogsy

Day 6 walking. Carrying an extra load today 27 April Puerte La Reina

A really early start this morning - everyone in the room seemed anxious to get going. Not sure why, perhaps they wanted to make the most of the fact that it wasn't raining at that moment, or they were looking to do 2 stages, approx 40km. Not us. We were looking to do around 20km, but as usual that's a maybe.

So 6.30am we were out on the road in the semi-dark, dressed for cold and rain - ready for anything. We walked with a camino friend, Pierre, a Canadian who has really poor eyesight, so wanted someone to walk with whilst it was still dark.

We knew today's path included a long uphill, followed by a steep downhill which was reported to be loose gravel and quite slippery. But today we had light rain, freezing cold, very muddy, slippery uphill, followed by a gravel downhill path which wasn't too bad.

Amazingly, at the top of the mountain the weather was cloudy and cold, but no rain. Then once over the top, the sun came out and blue skies appeared. It was really taunting us, because it fluctuated between sun, cloud, rain, wind..... necessitating numerous wardrobe changes! I lost count of how many times I took a layer off, and put it on again later.

Walking up to Alto de Perdon was sooo muddy. We are carrying and extra kilo or two on each shoe! Alto de Perdon is where you can be pardoned for your sins. Maybe the extra load was penance for my sins... But it certainly felt lighter as we descended in sunshine - albeit very briefly.

hands so cold..... only had socks for protection

Couldn't walk any further today. My pack grew heavier throughout the day, and mud challenged me. Thankful for nerdy walking poles.

Beautiful afternoon in Puenta la Reina

Update of the blister front.

• Fleece in the sock wasn't doing anything with this one. Advice from all fronts was to pop it.
• Walking with blister on side of heel was causing a change to balance and walking gait to the point where I was developing pain in my ankle. Considered I might need to strap the ankle.
• So I stuck the threaded needle through it releasing the fluid. Attempted the superglue strategy, but had trouble squeezing any inside the blister, so smothered it over the top. Then added this 'second skin' stuff.
• Started off really well, but by the end of the day, blister had reformed, and giving a bit of pain.
• Next plan - release fluid again and strap it this time. See how it goes now. Think I will have to ditch the sandals!!!!!

Notes to self

• 19km  Cizor Menor to Puenta la Reina
• Puerte La Reina - Albergue 5€ each. 10 people in a small dorm, but ok
• Sandals that you can wear with socks would be better option. Not the best fashion statement, but beats cold toes any day.
• Bar Menu del Dia - 9.90€ each, and a great choice for each of 3 courses. 29.40€ for dinner including a bottle of wine, and extra drinks and coffees and hot chocolate. Add free wifi, so we've been here for an afternoon. All good.
• Cheap ponchos are useless.
• Lex should pack gloves for cold weather. Was thinking early today, gloves might be nice, but for only first hour or two. We could probably survive without. But cold came in bursts throughout the day. Lex suffered the most, so gloves should be on his packing list.
• A buff is a great addition. Small, but excellent for cold. Can even pull it up over your mouth and nose.
• Walking poles are super for slippery paths, both uphill and downhill

Posted with Blogsy

Day 5 walking. Just a short day... To Cizor Menor April 26

Had planned to stay an extra day in Pamplona, but after a walk around the city walls in the rain, we opted to go on. Walking around Pamplona in the rain or walking along the camino in the rain??? Only a few places open early, as in after 9am, we opted to go on.

Sore feet, a painful blister, continuing rain.  Time for a hot chocolate in a bar in Cizor Menor and opportunity to study options. Hot chocolate never tasted so good, but the longer we sat, the colder we got.

Big decision, walk on or stay. Walking posed problems. I could probably go 5km, but maybe not 12. Next Albergue didn't have food or a bar, so we would have to find and carry food. More to carry! Unlikely I could get further to the next town after that. .... And we were feeling colder. The thought of walking out in the rain, and the cold seemed so much harder than earlier in the day, so we opted to stay here, having only walked 5km. Joined the group of pilgrims waiting for the 1pm opening of the Albergue.

Lunch... Such a laugh. We had noticed an 'asado' across the road. Really looking forward to some spit roasted lamb. But we were discouraged from entering by a woman who told us ' no pilgrim menu, solo a la carte'. We tried to tell her that was ok, but Spanish only, she mentioned some other bar across the road etc etc.

We got the message - It was a bit upmarket for us. So we went around the corner, and in another door to the same restaurant. And to be honest, it was a bit up-market... Suits, fur coats and pearls. I didn't quite fit in with my socks and thongs!!! (And Peruvian beanies, of course) But I kept my feet well hidden under the table.

And the spit roast 3-5 mth old lamb was excellent. Didn't leave a scrap. Enjoyed a bottle of wine with lunch. 59€ included a charge for water and bread. Payed it gladly. It was scrumptious, especially on this cold cold day.

Back in the hostel, there's a communal area with free wifi.  Guess where everyone is. A kit-kat from the vending machine wasn't bad either.

By now we are out of sync with many of the people we met earlier, so we continue to make new friends, and those we have met previously (even only once) are welcomed like long lost acquaintances. Such amazing experiences. Met up with Pierre again here.

People are welcoming, and giving.  Today I have been offered plasters, creams as well as advice for my blister, which btw has not improved with my fleece treatment. Watch for further updates on that one!

Notes to Self.

• 5km Pamplona to Cizor Menor
• Albergue de Maribel 6€ - centre of town

Posted with Blogsy

Morning sounds...

It is now just 6am. I know without looking at a clock, because Lex's alarm has just gone off.  Oh No!!!  It's dark. We are in a hostel in Pamplona, Jesus and Maria, 114 beds, over 2 levels.

But there has been sounds and movement since before 5am.

A déjà vu moment really. Someone went down to the laundry at the back of the building (we are near the back), and dropped a heap of coins..... Who would do that? Then they proceeded to try to feed coins into a slot. Coins seemed to drop right through. On and on... And accompanied by much banging of a metal door. Sounded very much like said person was attempting to put their clothes through a drier. Not sure which would have made more noise- the half hour of trying to get it to work, or the drier working.

There is more movement now. People walking up to the bathroom etc. no soft stepping here, just confident strong strides. Oh and squeaky shoes on the vinyl floor!

Lots of rustling of sleeping bags being stuffed into bags. Zippers being opened and shut. Plastic bags rustling. Creaking of bunks as occupants roll and toss. Showers running, toilets flushing. Lights being flicked on and off.  Doors being opened and shut.  My light from my ipad as I type this entry. Yes I have the brightness turned right down.

And amongst it all, still the sounds of snoring.

The morning sounds start just before 5am, with just a few, and gradually increase, mostly just after 6am. Bit like 6 is the signal.

Most hostels have rules about times. Here we had to be in before 11pm, breakfast is at 7am, and we must be out by 8am. Most don't open for business until 2pm, and you can only stay one night, since pilgrims are usually on a mission to get to Santiago.

We plan to stay here another night so we will have to find somewhere else. So it goes.

Posted with Blogsy