The camino teaches many lessons if you are open to learning them. Today was the day for learning to appreciate what we have.
After a cold, wet evening the night before, we awoke early to more rain. Had planned to make an early start with Pierre, but there was no point in heading out early. If you must walk in rain, then at least leave it until daylight. So we went back to the warmth of sleeping bags for a while.
We shared breakfast of bananas, cake and chocolate (Milka chocolate), donned wet weather gear and followed others out into the rain. There was much rustling of plastic that morning as everyone it seemed, donned wet weather pants, jackets, pack covers and ponchos. Lex had discarded his torn 'el cheapo' poncho days earlier. I was really wishing we had bought some of those light weight weather proof trousers we had seen in Melbourne. On a previous day Lex had worn shorts as his wet weather gear - like others, thinking that skin dries faster than fabric.
But this morning was bitterly cold. Merino base layers were worn under trousers, and Lex wore Aussie style sock protectors, to keep water from flowing down into his socks. Worked really well
So today I have much to be thankful for......
- Dry feet - we have walked in mud and rain, this morning, quite heavy rain, but my socks, and therefore my feet remain largely dry. Just a little damp from perspiration.
- Merino base layer leggings are warm even when wet. And they were drenched.
- Quick dry travel clothes really do dry quickly. Heaviest rain stopped after 2 or 3 hours, and our clothes dried out completely.
- Wearing 6 layers means I am warm, but I am also carrying less in my pack. 6 - tshirt, smart wool base layer, warm jacket, light wind-proof jacket, water proof jacket, and poncho over myself and the pack. Upper body felt snug and dry. Until the poncho ripped, and the tear just kept going.
- Hot chocolate warms the hands and the insides. Stopped for hot chocolate after walking in rain for a couple of hours.
- There are shops in the bigger cities. Most of the villages/towns we pass through seem very quiet, almost deserted. Logroño is a bustling place, at least after the siesta time. I only brought one pair of long pants with me, opting for shorter gym style pants for warmer weather, which hasn't eventuated. Just had to have a second pair.
- Walking in the rain was cooler- didn't sweat so much, or need to drink too much water.
Other lessons I learned today.
- On cold days, walking poles are ICY- even carbon fibre ones. So cold I couldn't bear to put my hands outside sleeves of my jacket to hold poles for walking, so I carried them, but they were ICY.
- Ibuprofen helps numb the pain in sore legs..... Or maybe it was the vino tinto we had for our picnic lunch. No glasses, but we shared it around anyway.
- There's always another 'f#%**%ing hill'. Lex's words...
Not sure whether it was because of the rain and cold weather pushing us on, or the Ibuprofen and vino tinto, but we made good time, and were feeling ok at Viana, the 20km mark, so we kept going. An ideal day to do this really, as we were heading towards a larger city where there would be ample accommodation.
Visited 2 magnificent churches today, one in Viana, and and even bigger, more impressive one here in Logroño. An amazing find in this church was a painting of the crucifixion by Michelangelo. It was locked in a vault behind glass, and could be illuminated by placing 50c coin in a slot, enabling photos without flash. Fascinating.
Treated ourselves to a bit of luxury tonight. Not staying in a Municipal Albergue, but a private one, in a matrimonio room, with private bathroom, sheets on the bed, and large soft towels. Luxury.
Notes to self.
- 29km. Los Arcos to Logroño
- Albergue Logroño is sooooo comfortable. Heated room, and towel rack. TV, sheets, towels, shampoo etc. 30€ for matrimonio room. Money well spent.
- Tapas and pinchos served in bars.
- Vino tinto has a warming effect, even on the coldest days.
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