Thursday, May 30, 2013

On to Finisterre Day 2. Such a long hard day 30 May

33.5km. Wow. Knew it was going to be tough when the first 11km took us over 3 hours to do. Still had two thirds of the journey to go. Unlike the camino to Santiago, marking is haphazard, and difficult to follow.








This morning we had followed the markings to a T intersection in a village. We were standing in the road, wondering which way to go, when there was a tapping on the window in front of us. I looked up and saw a woman pointing to our left. So funny. They must live with this camino intrusion in their lives everyday.


As we sit in the bar at the Albergue I can see the agony in the faces of others as they 'walk' around. I feel the same way today. I had been feeling quite smug about no leg muscle pain for the whole trip. Today I can't be so sure. Feet are very sore ( no blisters, yet) but what else aches, I can't be sure. Need to get that mental toughness back. Tomorrow!

We had been thinking of going from here to Muxia, then down to Finisterre. But that would mean following this hard walk with another 30+ day. May not be such a good idea. Change of plans could be on the cards.
Met some friends here from previous stages. All found it difficult, but some arrived almost 3 hrs before us!


Notes to self.
  • 33.5 km is a tough day  Negreira to Olveiroa
  • Albergue 12€ Casa Loncho. Very good showers. Not push button water. Yeah.

Wednesday, May 29, 2013

On to Finisterre Day 1 and it's raining 29 May

So good to meet up with friends again before we left Santiago. I think that's one of the joys of the camino. Chance meetings.

Left Santiago in the rain, and much of the time was spent watching where the feet went, avoiding mud, rocks, water etc as we plodded uphill.... again. Such a big long hill. But the reward was there with a fascinating bridge.


Notes to self
  • 22 km Santiago de Compostela to Negreira
  • Albergue Lua 8€ each. Basic, but friendly wifi. Limited showers.
  • Bought a bottle of orujo de hierbas. Mmmmm. 7€. Not so heavy when only half full.

A day with Saint James. 28 May

Walked into the plaza near the Cathedral again this morning, following newly arrived pilgrims, and it felt just the same as yesterday, as if it were us struggling up that last rise into the plaza. Even the emotion was the same. Overwhelming.
Only the second tandem bike we have seen on the camino. One for you Don.
Sitting here in the church waiting for the pilgrim's mass. Yes we were here very early to get a seat. There are large tour groups everywhere, many with headsets for translations, but also many pilgrims still attached to their backpacks. Have heard 2 things about the service
  1. It is very long. About 2 hours
  2. They will swing the incense burner. Apparently it doesn't happen every day, only when someone pays for it. Costs about 350€ and that pays the wages of the guys who pull the ropes.






Disappointingly, my effort to recharge my Spanish Sim hasn't been successful, and my attempt to get it sorted at an Orange Shop was even more frustrating. So will leave it at that, and only use wifi  from now. Sadly.



The mass wasn't as long as we were led to believe, but was very special. Standing room only, even had rows of small children sitting on cold stone floor in front. Kids are the same everywhere. No pictures permitted during mass, except for the swinging of the botafumeiro (incense burner). Also one of the few times we have seen instant applause in church - when it finally finished swinging and one of the priests stopped it.

One of the nuns led the singing. What a beautiful voice. Before mass began, she seemed to go through the choruses with us. Well I think that's what was happening. One time, after a few repetitions, we heard her say, ' ah mucho mejor'. Much better, then she went on to another song.






Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Day 36 walking. Are we there yet? 27 May

Yes we are!


Such an amazing day. There was a buzz in the air with excitement and anticipation, but with only about 20km to walk, there was also no urgency. Our camino family gathered for breakfast, or should I say our first breakfast.




We made several stops throughout the day, dragging our arrival at the cathedral to around 2pm. But what an emotional arrival it was. We had followed a small stream of pilgrims into the city, and in true camino fashion, the sign post led us in the most roundabout route possible.







In the plaza outside the cathedral there were several others we had met along the way. It was overwhelming. So funny, as we gathered for a group photo, several other tourists jumped in to take photos of our pilgrim group. So we feature in a few other people's holiday snaps.



It's been such a privilege to be here, to walk the whole way though every kind of weather (but mostly cold), all 800km, and most of all to meet and share the journey with so many wonderful people. Our camino family. We are so blessed!

Thank you also to our family and friends for believing in us, and following our journey with interest. I have loved recounting each day's adventure, not only for our own memories, but also so that others could share this experience, if even from afar. Thanks for being there on Skype to talk to us on long walk stages. It meant a lot to us.



Today we registered at the Pilgrim's Office, collected our Compostelas (written in Latin), found some accommodation not too far from the Cathedral, visited the Cathedral, but will return tomorrow for mass, went out partying with friends way past our usual bedtime, and found our way back home.... in the rain.

All in all, a successful day.

Goodnight all.

Notes to self
  • 21.5km O Pedrusa to Santiago...... We made it!!! 
  • Private accomodation arranged through a lady in the street  15€ each per night
  • I do love a shower that has a constant flow of hot water instead of 10sec push button.
  • I also love clean sheets, and a proper bathroom towel.
  • Think I am very tired. May not wake up until late.


Sunday, May 26, 2013

Day 35 walking. Camino family reunion. 26 May




Just a beautiful day on the camino. It really feels like we are coming to the end of the journey. There's a party atmosphere, with lots of opportunities to catch up with camino friends at all the stops along the way. It has been such a privilege to be here and to meet so many amazing people. We are very fortunate indeed.


From very early morning in our Albergue, there seemed to be excitement in the air. A large group near us was up early, and we think preparing for a big day.... all the way to Santiago in one day. 40kms. But that's not for us. Poco a poco. And we don't want it to be over even sooner.


So today we have walked 22kms, and it seems to be one of the easiest days on the camino. There have still been ups and downs, but not so steep so more manageable. There's also been more eucalypt trees, so quite like home in many ways.



When we were planning this trip, Lex was considering some type of barrow, thinking I would not be able to carry my pack. We have seen several versions along the camino. Maybe something like this might have suited. But then, I think most days I have been ok with my pack, even though it is heavier than planned.

Spoke to someone at a stop today. They asked where we had started, and were amazed to hear that we have walked from St Jean Pied de Port, almost 800km. They had started at Sarria, just over 100km from Santiago, and their feet were suffering. I do remember suffering feet, but it is quite a distant memory. With all the 'light pack' walkers on the trail at the moment, I need to remind myself not to feel just a little smug.



We've been hoping to meet up again with a Canadian friend from the beginning of our camino, emailing him for the past few days checking on his progress. And amazingly, he also made it to O Pedrusa tonight, a mammoth 33km for him. So there are several of our camino family together for our last day and walk into Santiago tomorrow.

Less than 20km to our destination now. Hard to believe we are so close, and have walked almost 800km.

Great night out tonight with camino family. Have gained so much from this experience. Definitely blessed. Thank you all!

Notes to self.

  • 24.5km Ribadiso to O Pedrusa