Day 18 walking. Decisions decisions. 9 May

Every day we look at the Camino Guide book, and consider how far we might travel. We look at terrain and accommodation options, but have always left it open to chance. That's the way most people walk the camino.

Before I go further, our guide book has suggested stages, 31 or 32 stages in all. I can't remember. Many people follow those stages fairly closely, and complete the camino in just over a month. Some are faster and others like us are slower- don't have a schedule to keep to. We generally try to walk out of sync with the suggested stages, which we think will give better options for accommodation. We have heard stories of places filling up, and saw such a day ourselves recently.

Our options for today included

• A short walk of 14km, which would put us in sync and not really far enough for the day
• After that accommodation options looked less and there were longer distances between places.
• End of the next stage gave plenty of accommodation options, but would be 34km. Bit too far.
• Slightly less at 29km were a few options, and a interesting church to visit. Looked like the best option, but what if we walked 29km, and couldn't find a bed. We would have to walk a further 5km, and at the end of an already long day.  It didn't excite me.

So we made the decision last night to make a reservation for today, obviously in one of the private hostels which are more expensive. Can't make reservations at Municipal Albergues. So we booked it online, on Booking.com. Got the booking info and receipt, but all day the thought that they wouldn't have our booking stuck in my head. I would have had a melt down for sure.

Weather reports for today promised, and the sky delivered. RAIN. ALL DAY. what a hard day it turned out to be.

Since we had stayed in a private room the night before, we weren't woken to the sounds of packing usual from around 6am. We got ourselves ready and were out in the street at 7.15, a little later than usual. But there wasn't another sole around, either in front or behind us. Even had us checking our guide book to see if we were heading in the right direction.

So where was everyone? The previous 2 days had been very busy, always people ahead and behind. Today, no-one for ages, and then only a handful.

• Had they seen weather reports and started even earlier
• Had they decided on a lay day?

Heard later, that many had opted for the bus option. Mmmmmm. As I lay here now, still shivering, and aching, I might have been persuaded. But for us, that's not the point. Each day is what it is, and we will deal with it while we still can.

It was only light rain, so we dressed as we had the day before- only the light weight wind/shower proof jacket. Had the bag with ipad, passports etc tucked inside. The rain was only light but relentless. We walked the first 8km, expecting to find a warm bar for the usual hot chocolate, but nothing looked inviting, so we walked on to the next place, another 6km. By this stage, it was really obvious that the wind/shower proof jacket was a failure. I was wet though, but since there was no wind it wasn't really cold. I did start to worry about the ipad and the passports, so transferred ipad to Lex's waterproof pocket. Fingers crossed at this stage, all would be good.

We made it to Fromista, in around 3 hours. Wanting to get out of the rain motivates you. At this point I started to really feel cold, we were sitting in a tent shelter out on the street. So changed into some dry clothes, had breakfast of hot chocolate and cake, and followed it with lunch of paella and vino tinto.... And a move indoors.

Things were definitely looking brighter. But I must admit, I was really questioning last night's decision to make that reservation. Another 15km in the rain did not appeal, and if we hadn't made it I'm sure we would have opted for a dry room or bed.

One of the factors which influenced our decision to book ahead, was that we would be travelling beside canals, and Lex just loves all those things. Thought we would take the slightly longer path (by 2 km) and walk beside the canals and locks, rather than the gravel path beside the road. Might even have a picnic, as we still had half bottle of wine, cheese and chorizo.

Return to the road we did... And the rain didn't let up. We still, stupidly opted for the leisurely walk along the canal, but it was muddy, boggy, and very hard going. When we could, about 5km from our destination of Villalcazar, we found a way back to the gravel path. Now the rain was driving hard into our faces, and the wind turned cold. I don't think I saw anything of today's scenery. Only looked up occasionally to see low cloud. The rest of it was looking down at where to place feet in the mud, or stare at the gravel.

Lex and I have quite different opinions of today, so since I'm writing, that's the one you get.
Arrived here absolutely dripping, and very cold.

Notes to self

• 29km  Itero de la Vega to Villacazar de Sirga in rain is a hard slog. Hoping I will feel better about it tomorrow when we are that bit further ahead.
• Hostal Infanta Doña Leonor. 45€ bed and breakfast. But breakfast is not served until 8 am. Who waits for 8am?
• Hot shower, heaters, are very welcome when you are wet
• Where do you put all wet stuff in small bathroom. Lucky I have that travel washing line. But even it's not enough. Hope they leave heating on all night, but not expecting it.
• Will we book ahead again. Not sure
• Unbelievably inside of my shoes remained dry until the last 8 km, when we opted for long grassy verges rather than the thick mud. After that it was hopeless. Socks completely drenched. Not looking forward to tomorrow.

This is home for the night... Hot shower, heaters, warm beds, towels... Heaven.
Not many pictures today. Too wet.

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