A day with Saint James. 28 May

Walked into the plaza near the Cathedral again this morning, following newly arrived pilgrims, and it felt just the same as yesterday, as if it were us struggling up that last rise into the plaza. Even the emotion was the same. Overwhelming.

Only the second tandem bike we have seen on the camino. One for you Don.

Sitting here in the church waiting for the pilgrim's mass. Yes we were here very early to get a seat. There are large tour groups everywhere, many with headsets for translations, but also many pilgrims still attached to their backpacks. Have heard 2 things about the service

1. It is very long. About 2 hours
2. They will swing the incense burner. Apparently it doesn't happen every day, only when someone pays for it. Costs about 350€ and that pays the wages of the guys who pull the ropes.

Disappointingly, my effort to recharge my Spanish Sim hasn't been successful, and my attempt to get it sorted at an Orange Shop was even more frustrating. So will leave it at that, and only use wifi  from now. Sadly.

The mass wasn't as long as we were led to believe, but was very special. Standing room only, even had rows of small children sitting on cold stone floor in front. Kids are the same everywhere. No pictures permitted during mass, except for the swinging of the botafumeiro (incense burner). Also one of the few times we have seen instant applause in church - when it finally finished swinging and one of the priests stopped it.

One of the nuns led the singing. What a beautiful voice. Before mass began, she seemed to go through the choruses with us. Well I think that's what was happening. One time, after a few repetitions, we heard her say, ' ah mucho mejor'. Much better, then she went on to another song.

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