Day 7 walking. Every day has ups and downs April 28

Day 7 walking, Puerte La Reina to Estrella 22.4km

And the path certainly had its fair share up ups and downs. The first climb of the day seemed to go on forever.... And we were battered by icy winds. Hard to imagine you can be so cold in sunshine. Started out dressed for cold, well I did, merino leggings, trousers, etc. Worked up a sweat going up the first climb, so removed the jacket layer near the top, only to add a lighter jacket layer a little later.

The time we get going in the morning is very much determined by the group in the room where we are sleeping. No-one stirred particularly early this morning, so we didn't get up until around 6.30am, and out walking by around 7.15am. Other rooms were already cleared by the time we got up. But the previous morning, our room seemed to be the early starters, and we were out on the road by 6.30, walking in the dark. There seemed to be a lot more people on the path today, not sure why, but most were in a definite hurry, and we were frequently passed.

We always say that we are walking our own camino, and don't want to get pressured into walking the pace or distances set by others, but there's just a smidgen of pressure when people keep passing you, especially older pilgrims. Don't fear, I've been able to resist so far, so should be ok. There are some amazingly fit people walking the camino. Haven't seen 81 yr old friend for days. Good on him.

We passed through some amazing villages today.... Usually at the top of a long climb.

Today had been such a hard slog. Legs ache, feet tired, blister still sore, shivering cold, and blustery wind.

In Estella, we have checked in to a hostel, also at the top of a long hill, but a little out of town, so we won't be going anywhere for dinner. Think I might curl up in my sleeping bag for a while.

We have walked 114km, plus several kms sight seeing around towns.

Notes to self

• 22.4km Puenta la Reina to Estella
• Albergue Juvenil Oncineda.  Bed 9.90€. Meal 9.80€. Breakfast...not sure of price. Too exhausted and cold to go out.
• Carry toilet paper with you.
• Hot chocolate is delicious on cold days. So is warm crusty fresh baguette
• Walking poles are not necessary when walking on bitumen through towns, especially early in the morning. More pilgrims should be considerate about this. Clack clack clack clack.

hot chocolate... more like Quick, but so warm and delicious!

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Living like a turtle for a week...

We've been living out of a back pack for a week now, so how is it going?

So cold he wore socks on his hands

Lex is still confused. Doesn't know where anything is. Has this new pack, a NZ design which has 2 waterproof front packs, which aim to distribute the weight between front and back, and in reality should give ample spaces for those things you need to get to as you walk. Reality is quite different in this case. He has great difficulty finding anything.

We were on our way out of Pamplona ( ie through the Pyrenees, and what we thought might be the coldest areas) before he found his buff (neck scarf). Really needed it today too - sooo cold. Lucky we found it yesterday. Good thing is, it hasn't worn out, and is still clean!

The main part of his pack only has one compartment, but he has various packing cells, and we also have a bag for using to take items to the shower. But it has all sorts of things in it... Things that otherwise don't have a home. So you can see - he obviously has too much stuff, and is totally confused. He'll get there before the end.... I hope.

I have less options for storing my stuff, so less is more.

When we arrive at an Albergue, we unpack sleeping bag and liner first .... claims the bed. Most places so far have a sheet and pillow, in clean pillow case. Sometimes it is disposable sheets, most times cotton, but pillow cases are very interesting. Pillow slips is a better term as they have no seam on either end, so when you put the pillow in and shake it down, it slips right through. Happened in Pamplona, where we were given a sheet and pillow slip when we registered. Laughed to myself when it happened to me, but couldn't resist watching it happen to Lex later.

Then we usually head for a shower - always a different experience, and just when you think you have it sorted out, I find something else which is even more difficult than getting everything wet - shared shower spaces, or just a trickle of water.

Most frustrating thing is small travel towels... Just so small, and get saturated so quickly. In warm weather back home it really wasn't an issue. Could have even used a face washer size towel. But here, where it is cold, a regular size, dry (even better .... warm) towel would feel like a luxury.

Keeping all your stuff together is a challenge too. Can't spread out, there are many people in a room. Good thing is, with 2 of us, one person can watch the valuables (documentos, ipad, money). Most places have seemed really good, but always need to be careful.

Washing needs to be done frequently - even better to do it each day. Routine. Haven't mastered that yet. Even worse when things don't dry overnight and we need to pin them to the outside of the pack to dry in the sun as you walk. Well that's the theory, but in the rain, that's a bit more difficult. Although today, it worked for Lex. His fingers were sooooooo cold today, as we came over Alto de Peredon,it was unbearable. He couldn't work the camera, couldn't do anything. Couldn't even get them into his pockets, cos the pack strap goes across the opening to pockets. So, we got his 'not yet dry' socks from the back of the pack, and put them on his hands. Improved gradually... Gloves might be worthwhile next time.

Packing cells seem to work quite well - keep clothes together. Soap in a small fabric bag, also works really well. Has a drawstring so you can hang it on the tap, which is so good as there is rarely anywhere to put things in the showers.

So all in all, we haven't got this back packing caper sorted yet. Living with less is one of the challenges we talked about in doing this camino, and we certainly have a lot less than we normally travel with. But today I struggled with the weight of my pack. In some places, there are donation boxes, where walkers shed some of their unwanted items, or pick up desired items. Haven't done either yet. Will be so much easier when the weather gets warmer. What can I send home.... Was considering this question the afternoon we walked into Pamplona in the sun (in t-shirts ). But we left Pamplona in the rain next day, and it just got colder. Looking at news on the tv in this bar, and it's showing snow somewhere in Spain. So not yet.

We are getting there....

Note, Lex's socks on the back of his pack, drying. Third day, more sun today, so maybe ok.

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Day 6 walking. Carrying an extra load today 27 April Puerte La Reina

A really early start this morning - everyone in the room seemed anxious to get going. Not sure why, perhaps they wanted to make the most of the fact that it wasn't raining at that moment, or they were looking to do 2 stages, approx 40km. Not us. We were looking to do around 20km, but as usual that's a maybe.

So 6.30am we were out on the road in the semi-dark, dressed for cold and rain - ready for anything. We walked with a camino friend, Pierre, a Canadian who has really poor eyesight, so wanted someone to walk with whilst it was still dark.

We knew today's path included a long uphill, followed by a steep downhill which was reported to be loose gravel and quite slippery. But today we had light rain, freezing cold, very muddy, slippery uphill, followed by a gravel downhill path which wasn't too bad.

Amazingly, at the top of the mountain the weather was cloudy and cold, but no rain. Then once over the top, the sun came out and blue skies appeared. It was really taunting us, because it fluctuated between sun, cloud, rain, wind..... necessitating numerous wardrobe changes! I lost count of how many times I took a layer off, and put it on again later.

Walking up to Alto de Perdon was sooo muddy. We are carrying and extra kilo or two on each shoe! Alto de Perdon is where you can be pardoned for your sins. Maybe the extra load was penance for my sins... But it certainly felt lighter as we descended in sunshine - albeit very briefly.

hands so cold..... only had socks for protection

Couldn't walk any further today. My pack grew heavier throughout the day, and mud challenged me. Thankful for nerdy walking poles.

Beautiful afternoon in Puenta la Reina

Update of the blister front.

• Fleece in the sock wasn't doing anything with this one. Advice from all fronts was to pop it.
• Walking with blister on side of heel was causing a change to balance and walking gait to the point where I was developing pain in my ankle. Considered I might need to strap the ankle.
• So I stuck the threaded needle through it releasing the fluid. Attempted the superglue strategy, but had trouble squeezing any inside the blister, so smothered it over the top. Then added this 'second skin' stuff.
• Started off really well, but by the end of the day, blister had reformed, and giving a bit of pain.
• Next plan - release fluid again and strap it this time. See how it goes now. Think I will have to ditch the sandals!!!!!

Notes to self

• 19km  Cizor Menor to Puenta la Reina
• Puerte La Reina - Albergue 5€ each. 10 people in a small dorm, but ok
• Sandals that you can wear with socks would be better option. Not the best fashion statement, but beats cold toes any day.
• Bar Menu del Dia - 9.90€ each, and a great choice for each of 3 courses. 29.40€ for dinner including a bottle of wine, and extra drinks and coffees and hot chocolate. Add free wifi, so we've been here for an afternoon. All good.
• Cheap ponchos are useless.
• Lex should pack gloves for cold weather. Was thinking early today, gloves might be nice, but for only first hour or two. We could probably survive without. But cold came in bursts throughout the day. Lex suffered the most, so gloves should be on his packing list.
• A buff is a great addition. Small, but excellent for cold. Can even pull it up over your mouth and nose.
• Walking poles are super for slippery paths, both uphill and downhill

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Day 5 walking. Just a short day... To Cizor Menor April 26

Had planned to stay an extra day in Pamplona, but after a walk around the city walls in the rain, we opted to go on. Walking around Pamplona in the rain or walking along the camino in the rain??? Only a few places open early, as in after 9am, we opted to go on.

Sore feet, a painful blister, continuing rain.  Time for a hot chocolate in a bar in Cizor Menor and opportunity to study options. Hot chocolate never tasted so good, but the longer we sat, the colder we got.

Big decision, walk on or stay. Walking posed problems. I could probably go 5km, but maybe not 12. Next Albergue didn't have food or a bar, so we would have to find and carry food. More to carry! Unlikely I could get further to the next town after that. .... And we were feeling colder. The thought of walking out in the rain, and the cold seemed so much harder than earlier in the day, so we opted to stay here, having only walked 5km. Joined the group of pilgrims waiting for the 1pm opening of the Albergue.

Lunch... Such a laugh. We had noticed an 'asado' across the road. Really looking forward to some spit roasted lamb. But we were discouraged from entering by a woman who told us ' no pilgrim menu, solo a la carte'. We tried to tell her that was ok, but Spanish only, she mentioned some other bar across the road etc etc.

We got the message - It was a bit upmarket for us. So we went around the corner, and in another door to the same restaurant. And to be honest, it was a bit up-market... Suits, fur coats and pearls. I didn't quite fit in with my socks and thongs!!! (And Peruvian beanies, of course) But I kept my feet well hidden under the table.

And the spit roast 3-5 mth old lamb was excellent. Didn't leave a scrap. Enjoyed a bottle of wine with lunch. 59€ included a charge for water and bread. Payed it gladly. It was scrumptious, especially on this cold cold day.

Back in the hostel, there's a communal area with free wifi.  Guess where everyone is. A kit-kat from the vending machine wasn't bad either.

By now we are out of sync with many of the people we met earlier, so we continue to make new friends, and those we have met previously (even only once) are welcomed like long lost acquaintances. Such amazing experiences. Met up with Pierre again here.

People are welcoming, and giving.  Today I have been offered plasters, creams as well as advice for my blister, which btw has not improved with my fleece treatment. Watch for further updates on that one!

Notes to Self.

• 5km Pamplona to Cizor Menor
• Albergue de Maribel 6€ - centre of town

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Morning sounds...

It is now just 6am. I know without looking at a clock, because Lex's alarm has just gone off.  Oh No!!!  It's dark. We are in a hostel in Pamplona, Jesus and Maria, 114 beds, over 2 levels.

But there has been sounds and movement since before 5am.

A déjà vu moment really. Someone went down to the laundry at the back of the building (we are near the back), and dropped a heap of coins..... Who would do that? Then they proceeded to try to feed coins into a slot. Coins seemed to drop right through. On and on... And accompanied by much banging of a metal door. Sounded very much like said person was attempting to put their clothes through a drier. Not sure which would have made more noise- the half hour of trying to get it to work, or the drier working.

There is more movement now. People walking up to the bathroom etc. no soft stepping here, just confident strong strides. Oh and squeaky shoes on the vinyl floor!

Lots of rustling of sleeping bags being stuffed into bags. Zippers being opened and shut. Plastic bags rustling. Creaking of bunks as occupants roll and toss. Showers running, toilets flushing. Lights being flicked on and off.  Doors being opened and shut.  My light from my ipad as I type this entry. Yes I have the brightness turned right down.

And amongst it all, still the sounds of snoring.

The morning sounds start just before 5am, with just a few, and gradually increase, mostly just after 6am. Bit like 6 is the signal.

Most hostels have rules about times. Here we had to be in before 11pm, breakfast is at 7am, and we must be out by 8am. Most don't open for business until 2pm, and you can only stay one night, since pilgrims are usually on a mission to get to Santiago.

We plan to stay here another night so we will have to find somewhere else. So it goes.

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AARRGGHH I have a blister

On the side of my right heel.... from walking around Pamplona for a few hours in sandals! Go figure.
We have been so careful with our feet. And so far all good. Boots were well worn in. Even upgraded to better socks just before we left. Even sandals were worn in and ok, although I didn't expect to wear them for long walking. And it wasn't actually a LOT of walking in sandals yesterday.

But the BLISTER is there. So how to treat it. I have 2 choices.

1. Place a piece of alpaca fleece over the blister inside my sock. Read about this in a camino forum, although they used wool fleece. I have tried it, and had success on training walks.
2. Pop the blister, and squeeze superglue into the space. Haven't tried it, but told it works well. We have the superglue, and I did use it as a second skin over a cut on my finger just before we left home. Great results too

So think I will try the fleece first.

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Day 4 walking. Pamplona! We made it on Anzac Day 25 April

A day full of highlights.

As we walk I think about blog topics, and I had a few today, even before we reached our destination, and that one just blew us away.... Walking into Pamplona. But first things first.

Going to bed before 9 pm, in broad daylight isn't difficult when you are totally stuffed. But the down side is, we wake up early.... When we returned from dinner before 8.30 half the people in our dormitorio were already asleep, so we decided not to pack our gear ready for the next day. Big mistake, and since there was a place to put things, we had unpacked more than usual. Early morning, around 5am, not much movement, apart from a few soles making their way outside to the toilet in the next building. Lex and I were awake, so decided to head out.... Taking all our gear outside to pack it up. Picked up my trousers, and dropped all the coins out of a pocket!!!  Leaving quietly was a dismal failure.

Today we  walked through forests, farmland, villages, alongside streams and mountain sides (up and down again, but not as much as previous days), along mostly gravel tracks, and sometimes parallel to the highway, and into the amazing old walled city of Pamplona.  Stopped for breakfast in a beautiful small village. Think it was Irotz, after which the track divided - ariba o abajo. We took the high road.... Which led up to a lovely old church. What a gem of an experience.

Talked to a lady who told us the history of the church, about the bell tower, which we climbed, and tapped on the huge bell. Such a beautiful sound. It was surrounded by a sea of flowers, tulips and small wild daisies.

The trail approaches the outskirts of Pamplona via ancient medieval bridge, then through a quiet, mainly pedestrian area.

Just like in the movie, we ran into some new friends, and stopped for a welcome drink before trekking the final 4.5km into the city centre. The path is marked the entire way. Follow the yellow arrows or pilgrim shell, painted on everything.

And in to the centre with the most impressive ancient city walls. Just jaw-dropping!

Tonight we are staying at another municipal Albergue Jesus and Maria. Beautiful old building. Part of 17 century Jesuit church, and seems to be recently done up. 114 beds. Lower bunks tonight so all good.

Such an amazing feeling walking through this city. Can't wait to go and explore, but we have washing to do. ;-(

Notes to self.

• Walked about 22km today, Zubiri to Pamplona, through forests, farmland, villages, alongside streams and mountain sides (up and down again, but not as much as previous days), along mostly gravel tracks, and sometimes parallel to the highway, and into the amazing old walled city of Pamplona.
• 22km Zubiri to Pamplona
• Jesus and Maria Albergue is excellent. 7€ bed only. Free use of washing machine. Wifi available, but only in foyer and weak. Doors shut at 11pm
• Lots of interesting bars near the Albergue. Vino and tapas for 2€. We had a couple. Small beer for 1€. And some more wine and tapas elsewhere for 10.90€. That was dinner. Enjoyed company of Dirk and Tilly and talked about Cusco and Sacred Valley.
• Pack the night before.
• Got a blister on my heel from sandals. #%%^#}
• Had planned to stay another night in Pamplona. But raining, walked around city wall early (magnificent), had breakfast for 7€, and decided to walk on. Drizzling rain.

Yeah.... we are connected!

We purchased a Nano Sim from an Orange dealer in Pamplona for our ipad. Woohoo. We paid 20€ for the SIM card and an upgrade to 1gb of data on a one month prepaid plan. It was perfect and worked brilliantly. We use wifi whenever possible, but being able to use 3G service almost everywhere means we can talk to family back in Aust whilst walking- sharing our journey, and calling at a mutually convenient time.

Orange shop rep in Pamplona was very helpful, inserting the SIM card for me, checking that it was set up properly, showing me how to check my data usage, although I didn't bother doing that. Apparently you need a Spanish address to set up prepaid plan, my address was the Orange shop.
Perfect.
Love being connected!!!

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