Day 3 walking. On to Zubiri. 24 April.

Absolutely beautiful day walking from Roncesvalles to Zubiri today.

Had an early start.... Well, according to Hostel rules, lights on at 6am, but there was sooooo much rustling of plastic bags, and packing sleeping bags, and padding down to bathrooms...... From 4am!!! Who could sleep?

Roncesvalles Albergue is MASSIVE. We were on the first floor, in a dorm of about 150 people with bunks set in groups of 4. Very nice and new. Good bathrooms. Excellent.  We attended the Pilgrim's Mass in the local church, followed by Pilgrims' Blessing. Yes we were blessed!

Suffice to say we were up early! No breakfast here, but they have plenty of options in the vending machines, and a well equipped kitchen.

We passed on these, opting for breakfast at one of the villages along the way.
First couple of hours, it was very cold. Fingers were freezing. No gloves in our pack, but not necessary after that. Found a great little supermarket, and bought goodies for lunch.

Baguette, salami and queso azul (blue cheese). Didn't look like blue cheese we know, but sure tasted like it. Yumm

Lots of up and down walking today, along well kept paths through farmland, forests and villages. Beautiful sunny day. Enjoyed it all

On two occasions, sheep were herded through village streets beside us.

Notes to self

• 22km  Roncesvalles to Zubiri
• Municipal Albergue Zubiri  Cheap option at 8€ each, but only get what you pay for. 2 dorms with 22 beds in each. Bathroom is separate building altogether, so really hoping not to need to get up in middle of the night. Must remember not to partake of too much vino tinto.
• One of our new friends is seriously worried that tiny black dots on disposable sheet may be bed bugs. Really hoping they are NOT.
• But I have now had a new shower experience. Clothes getting wet was really nothing to worry about. Communal ladies only shower - no separate cubicles, was a new one for me. I'm sure some of you are having a chuckle about it. How did I get to this stage without communal shower experience. Protected I guess. But I have showered today! We are here for the full range of experiences, so we'll take it as it comes. But might check notes on hostels more closely in future. All good. Haha.
• Pilgrim's menu 9€ each- 3 courses at a hotel in Zubiri. Good
• Picnic lunch is a great idea.

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Amazing new friends

There are all kinds of people walking the camino, but I think senior citizens are the majority.

One of our 4 bed sleeping cubicle ( bed buddies) from Roncesvalles is a French 81 yr old retired Catholic missionary. On the walk up the mountain the previous day, he passed us on the uphill. He just walks quite slowly, but consistently, never stops. Amazing. Both before bed, and early morning he goes through his exercise routine. Pretty sure we couldn't manage that either.

On the first day, where we only walked the first 8 km, we came across a woman plodding up the mountain with 2 walking sticks.... going all the way, 27km to Roncesvalles. Amazing.

But by far the most amazing group is the family who shared the meal with us at Orisson. 5 adults and 9 children ( looked to be aged 6 yrs to 14 yrs). The following morning, they all rocked up for breakfast, all carrying their own backpacks - with weight relative to their size. We next saw them that afternoon in Roncesvalles. They had walked it - just as we had. Sure takes the shine off our sense of achievement.

I would love to follow them sometime.

Lots of people are only walking for a week or two, because that's all the time they could get off.  A couple from Ireland are walking with their teenage daughter because it was her dream to walk the camino. They only have one week.

We were passed by lots of seniors today, carrying only very light packs. Like day packs. You have to think they are getting the rest of their gear transported from town to town. Lots of people do that, particularly on the early mountain stages. To each his own. Everyone walks their own camino.

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Day 2 walking. Roncesvalles. Woohoo. 23 April

Amazing feeling to be here, and realise that we have climbed the mountain.

Well, to be realistic, we took 2 days to complete what is regarded as the first stage of the camino. But we are here. We walked it all. It is regarded as the most difficult part of the camino, so we can do anything after this. We hope.

What an amazing day. Walked most of the early part in cloud. Dressed for cold - buff (neck scarf), beanie, merino thermal long johns, and jacket. Not far up the track, and I mean UP, I started to overheat, so ditched the buff, swapped the warm jacket for a walking light weight jacket. So glad I packed the beanie... My ears would have suffered.

Still further UP, swapped back to warm jacket, added the buff, and Lex was wishing he had packed gloves. Soooooo cold. Wind was whipping past, the area was highlighted as a danger zone - same area as the fatality in the movie. Low cloud, and poor visibility.

We noticed a car on the road not far back, and heard later that one of our new friends was being picked up and transported back to town, disoriented.

Onward and upward, into the snowy side of the mountain, where strangely, it was warmer. We had heard that there was significant snow on the track. And there was.

Once over the high mountain pass, the weather cleared, the sun came out. Spectacular.

Notes to self

• 18km.  Orisson to Roncesvalles.  Well done. You did it, without too much pain. We are tired. A few aches. I do better on uphill and Lex does better on downhill
• Roncesvalles Albergue Beds 10 EUR each
• Walking poles are worth the weight for downhill.
• Be prepared for on again, off again wardrobe changes.
• Roncesvalles. Albergue is an experience. Place is very well set out. Looks new, well newly renovated in a very old building. But it is not very personal. 
• Showers are good. Yes, I took a shower, and managed it. Everyone walks around in undies. 
• Shoes need to go in a Shoe Room, downstairs, away from sleeping quarters.
• Top bunk is very high! I'm not looking forward to that. Remember to ask for lower bunks. Can hear kids saying. Suck it up princess. What doesn't kill you makes you stronger. I'm hoping.
• Drink enough wine, you can use wifi at the bar all afternoon
• Peregrino dinner. 9 EUR each
• Pint of beer and a red wine 5.30 EUR. not bad.

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Showers. Who needs them!!! 22 April

Only day one..... I've had two showers in two different albergues, both unsuccessful.

This morning, before leaving St Jean Pied de Port I had a shower in our hostel, Chemin du Esprit. Bit of an exaggeration to call it a shower, only bits of me got wet. The water was COLD. Sincere apologies from Ivar, the boiler wasn't working that morning. At least I felt reassured that hot water was the norm, and could be expected at most places, I was starting to worry. However I still struggled to keep clothes etc dry.

Second shower of the day.... at Orisson, after walking 8km up the mountains in the French Pyrenees. Token gives 5 minutes of hot water (great) in bursts operated by a push button. Walls were damp, from the shower spray, or condensation, and ALL my clothes suffered from varying degrees of 'damp'. Wet = COLD here in the Pyrenees.

I have to come up with a way to keep clothes dry while I shower, and then even more difficult to dress in saturated surroundings. I did bring a sarong for that reason, but ducking back to dress in a mixed dorm with large numbers of people doesn't appeal. So showers may be off the agenda for a while.

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Day 1 walking. Orisson. 22 April

We made it!!

SALUD

Yes it is uphill! Really uphill, but we made it in a little over the estimated time of 3 hours, and we stopped for a picnic... as well as many vista spots (aka breather spots). What amazing scenery, even in cloudy weather.
We feel rather elated with our effort today. It wasn't a 'walk in the park' but we didn't suffer too much either.

This is a profile of Stage 1 - we are at Orisson, having walked 8km to an altitude of almost 800m. Tomorrow we have 18 km to walk, over the top at just over 1400m, and down to Roncesvalles.

General estimate is 5 hours walking, but I'm guessing it will take about 6 hrs.

Notes to self

• 8 km St Jean Pied de Port to Orisson
• Refuge Orisson.  32€ dinner B&B per person. 3€ for sandwich for lunch
• Walk at your own pace, and don't be intimidated by others. It's ok if we walk slower than others. One couple arrived around 6.30pm, in time for dinner, after 1hr 45 min walk from SJPDP. They live on the alps. Did feel for the German brothers we met the night before who arrived at Orisson hoping to get a bed, but had to go on all the way.
• Reservations necessary at Orisson.
• Large group here for dinner. 51 - 37 guests and a large group from nearby hostel- 5 adults and 9 kids. Self intros again tonight, many in dual languages. One of the young boys said in French, ' We are walking for a week in the mountains, but I don't know where.' There were obviously having a great time, lots of chatter and laughter.

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Albergue Esprit du Chemin 21 April

Ready for lights out.

Almost 10pm. We have not long ago finished our first albergue meal, and ready for lights out. Most albergues operate a similar 'curfew' system - doors locked and lights out at 10pm, and no noise before 6.30am. Definitely suits this weary soul tonight. Believe it or not, many trekkers start very early, rushing off so they can get to their next stop and check in to the albergue to ensure beds. In doing so, they often make it impossible for others to sleep, shining torches and rustling plastic bags and packs. Not expecting that here tomorrow.

18 people here tonight. Self introductions worked very well, and although there are many nationalities, most gave their introductions in English, or were translated for us. Interesting to see the mix- couples, brothers, friends, and solo trekkers, including a number of young females. Many are first timers, but there are also some who have done it before.

The word 'pilgrim' is used to refer anyone who walks the Camino de Santiago, for whatever reason, so I guess it is a word I will get used to hearing, and using, although it seems somewhat awkward at the moment. Pilgrims we are. We are walking, hoping to do the whole 800kms, or as much as our legs will hold out for. We have our 'credencial' - the pilgrim's passport which we will get stamped at each stop along the way.

Notes to self

• Dinner, bed, breakfast and a packed lunch for tomorrow 23€ each
• Esprit du Chemin ( Spirit of the way). Huberta and Ivar operate the hostel with the help of volunteers. They do an amazing job in helping the group dynamics and relieving any anxieties. 
• Meal was superb - soup, main, dessert and an ample supply of wine!
• NB. Drinking several glasses at night is not a good idea. It's very difficult getting down from the top bunk in the middle of the night.
• I now know what stereo snoring in a room of 8 people sounds like. Might need ear plugs for a room of 183 at Roncesvalles. Wondering if that can really be -183 in one room.

Lex tells me that the only snoring he heard during the night came from the bed below his. I find that hard to believe.
St Jean Pied de Port is an interesting place - very old walled city. Walked along the top of the wall and up to the Citadel - now used as a school. Amazing times...

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Collecting stories... 21 June 2013

Collecting stories.

Sure I want this blog to provide a journal of the details, but I don't want it to be another 'and then, and then' piece. So I'll add all that stuff at the end of entries, mostly just for myself. Like 'Notes to self'. ( a note of explanation)

So for our first story......

On the train from Bayonne to St Jean PDP this morning we got talking to some other trekkers ( a Pom and 2 Canadians), and the topic of the movie, The Way, came up, and in particular 'why we are doing the camino'. It plays a significant part of the movie. The young Canadian men said it was something they had talked about, and decided they would say, 'We're Jesuit priests in training.'

So are they or aren't they? We are unlikely to find out, I'm sure they will be ahead of us the whole way. On arriving at SJPDP, they registered at the Pilgrim's office, and took off for Roncesvalles straight away, whereas we stayed overnight in Bayonne and also plan to stay at St Jean first night for a look around, and then at Orisson the next night after an 8km uphill introduction.

Slowly slowly....

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